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Images of Peru 2004
Impressions of Cusco, The Sacred Valley, The Inca
Trail, and Machu Picchu
Welcome. The following account arises from a trip to Peru in
Oct. of 2004, organized by BioBio Expeditions and The Wilderness Medical Society.
This account will not be a recitation of facts about Peru and it’s people,
but rather impressions of Peru through the eyes of a traveler. There are many
alternative sources for factual information. The journey began with a brief
stopover in Lima, on the way to Cusco. After careful consideration, I have
come to the conclusion that the major purpose of stopping in Lima is to lose
a certain percentage of the luggage. Alas, Peru is not immune to this malady.
The luggage does eventually arrive. It was then on to Cusco, the ancient Inca
Capitol. We stayed at the Hotel Picoagua, a beautiful Spanish style hotel
in the heart of the city, and highly recommended. Cusco is a delightful place,
full of history, charm, and energy. The city is still built around a central
square, the Plaza de Armas, the same site as the central square of Inca times.
Around the square and down adjacent streets are numerous shops selling local
goods and crafts at excellent prices. Walking around town is a delight. The
setting is beautiful, and the people friendly. There are lots of “street
urchins” who regard tourists as walking “ATM” machines for
coins, but they are friendly and non hostile, and in general likable. As you
walk around the city, you see that many of the buildings are built on massive
stone foundations, dating back to the times of the Incas. Many are built of
huge blocks that were custom made on site to fit with the adjacent stones,
all individually crafted. The quality and craftsmanship is so great that it
is very hard not to be impressed. They have stood the test of time including
earthquakes that have brought down more “modern” buildings. It
seems that even the Spanish could not destroy them. The streets are narrow
and cozy, adding charm.
It is customary to stay in Cusco for several days to acclimate to the 11,000-foot
elevation. This is the given reason, but it takes that long for the stray
luggage to show up, so it all works out. Actually several of our group did
have mild “altitude sickness” including headaches and nausea,
and the extra days helped a lot. All recovered to move on to the Inca Trail.
It is easy to spend the extra time in and around Cusco shopping and sightseeing.
Among the main attractions are Korikacha and Sacsayhuaman. Korikacha (or Coricancha)
or “The Temple of The Sun” is an ancient Inca temple of superb
craftsmanship. This was one of the primary Inca temples and the Spanish, in
an effort to suppress the local religion and introduce Christianity, built
a Catholic Church over the Inca temple, much of which can still be seen enclosed
within the Spanish Church. Sacsayhuaman is a huge fortress like structure
on the outskirts of town. It is made of massive stones weighing up to many
tons, and in fact does look like a fortress. The structure is massive. The
top layers of smaller stones were partially removed by the Spanish for the
building of their Churches and such, but most of the stones are so large that
it was too much trouble for the Spanish to move them. How did the Incas’
do it? And why did the Spanish never bother to ask?
Next we moved on to the Sacred Valley. We toured several ruins including the
Ceremonial Site at Pisac, a beautiful site on a hillside with views for of
the Sacred Valley for miles. We stopped at the Pisac Market, a large rambling
marketplace with scores of booths selling a large variety of local crafts,
with many wool and Alpaca offerings at excellent prices. The evening was spent
at The El Mirador de Los Inkas Inn, a wonderful Inn in an isolated setting
on the Urubamba River, featuring the Q’awana Restaurant. There were
stops at Urubamba and Ollantaytambo before the Inca Trail.
The first day on the Inca Trail was relatively easy but all gently uphill.
First we passed over the Urubamba River. We passed many small settlements
of one, two, or three houses, allowing an intimate view of the native lifestyle.
The houses were predominately mud brick, with a variety of livestock in the
yards and along the trail. The trail often wondered through the “yards”
of these small homesteads, the native people friendly and occasionally offering
sodas for sell. The farther we traveled along the trail and the farther from
“civilization”, the more expensive the offerings. We shared the
trail with a variety of animals, including pigs, donkeys, horses, cows, chickens,
dogs, and a few other creatures. All were friendly, largely ignored us. The
natives of the mountains impressed us all with their self-sufficiency, serenity,
skills, and peaceful happy acceptance of life. The scenery the first day improved
with each passing mile. Ruins the first day include Willkaraquay and Llaqtapata
(or Llactapata - extensive and seen from a distance). There were numerous
blooming cacti, very pretty. The first campsite had wonderful views looking
back down the valley we had hiked during the day. By chance clear skies and
a full Lunar Eclipse highlighted our first night on the trail.
Day two was all uphill. We got our first taste of the real climb. All did
well however. We scenery became progressively more spectacular, culminating
in a breathtaking campsite just below “Dead Woman's Pass”, the
first and highest of several consecutive passes encountered on the third day.
This campsite had wonderful long-range views and was very serene. Here we
were visited by a herd of very tame Llamas, probably looking for handouts,
or simply visiting out of curiosity. Their presence did enhance our visit.
Day three was the big one. Way up, way down, and do it over
and over. The morning began with the ascent up to Dead Woman’s Pass
at 4200 meters, or around 13,800 feet. Next is downhill 2624 feet (800 meters)
over 1.25 miles, with lots of really big steps to negotiate. Then back up
to the second pass at 3950 meters, however the scenery gets so interesting,
you almost forget about the climbing (almost). Just before the second pass
is Runcu Raccay (or Runcu Racay, Runkuraqay, Runkuracay), a wonderfully preserved
fortress like ruin or a cliff with beautiful scenic views. Spectacular. Around
here you start to notice that the ruins are better and better preserved. It’s
then up to the second pass, with a couple of small lakes along the way. Throughout
this area you are up in the clouds and there is a foggy quiet mood that prevails
(or maybe we were just to tired to talk – I like to think it was the
scenery). It’s then down again, through a short rock tunnel and up to
Sayaqmarka (or Sayac Marca, Sayacmarka, meaning Inaccessible Town), a large
well preserved ruin located on a rock precipice surrounded on three sides
by long drops into the jungle below. This is the most complex ruin immediately
along the trail thus far. There are multiple adjoining rooms present, as well
as an intact stone aqua duct. Please see the pictures. This whole segment
was walking in the clouds or above the clouds. You felt like you were on top
of the world. This whole segment was much more moist than the first two days.
We were into the Cloud Forest, with lush jungle like vegetation that persisted
the rest of the hike. Colorful flowers ncluding many orchards were everywhere,
lining the path. Most of the stonework of the path is now Inca original. It
was then up to the third pass and campsite three.
Day four is downhill. You start descending down a hillside that has been turned
into an impressive 1500 foot staircase. There are lots of flowers, and the
vegetation is jungle. After a couple of hours you come to the Trekker’s
hotel, which seems completely out of place. The scenery is otherwise becoming
more and more remote undeveloped, and the ruins nearly perfectly intact. You
feel as if civilization forgot about this place for centuries. You pass a
ruin called Intipata and then move on to Winya Wayna (or Winay Wayna, Winaywayna,
Winyawayna, Huinay Huayna), the most spectacular ruins yet. The site is beautifully
preserved and maintained, with many intact terraces, gabled houses, and baths.
You walk out of the forest into a wonderful setting that is like stepping
into another world. This impression grows the closer you get to Machu Picchu.
It is then on to Intipunku, or the Gateway of the Sun. You emerge from the
forest and go up several short steps onto an Inca ruin that is a platform
on a high cliff with unobstructed views of Macchu Picchu. This is your first
sighting of Machu Picchu, and one of those places where you just sit down
and stare. It is a spectacular sight. Here you start to realize that you are
in a special place.
It’s then down to Machu Picchu, an overnight stay in
the town of Aguas Calientes, and a more relaxed return visit to the site the
next day. Please see the pictures above. Words cannot do justice. I will pass
on a few impressions. The site is pristine. The beautifully maintained and
groomed and the buildings are as perfect as you will ever see from an ancient
civilization. The craftsmanship is such high quality that it is hard to imagine
how it was made. It is also wonderful to see something from antiquity that
“modern” man has not destroyed or damaged. Only it's hidden nature
saved it, to our benefit. As impressive as it is, the thing that impressed
me was different. As you walk up to Machu Picchu, it begins to get quieter
and quieter. People began talk in quiet voices or whisper. Of course there
are always some noisy children, but it is somewhat more like walking into
a church or Holy Place than the usual raucous open-air museum or historical
site. People seem respectful. Perhaps it is because it looks as if it could
have been abandoned only yesterday. Perhaps it is because you feel as if you
are surrounded by the ghosts of the past. Perhaps it is because it was a holy
site, or because of the beauty of the location, or the shear effort that it
took to make such a place. But maybe the Incas chose it because it was such
a magical place.
